Gun dog first aid

If you have a hunting dog, the odds are good that you’ll have to administer first aid one day. The field with all its sharp and jagged things — barbed wire, ice, slick rocks, protruding sticks, old metal, and thorns — can be a dangerous place for creatures who bolt through it at breakneck speeds and low altitude. Just ask my dog…

That’s why I spoke to Dr. Marie McKibbin, a veterinarian with 36 years of experience, to learn more about first aid for the hunting dog.

Scrapes and cuts

She says the most common hunting dog injuries she treats are cut pads or paws, usually from bro­ken glass or jagged rocks. Another frequent injury is facial and ear lacerations due to dog fights. Scratched corneas and puncture wounds from sticks, thorns, and porcupine quills are also com­mon, while broken bones and gunshot wounds occur occasionally.

Blood alerts you to most of these injuries, but sometimes, especially with thorns and broken bones, you might only notice your dog worrying the wound or adjusting the way it normally moves.

Heat stroke and exhaustion

Common illnesses including heat stroke, exhaus­tion, hypoglycemia (low blood sugar levels) as well as hot spots and adverse effects from insect bites.

McKibbin says a dog suffering from heat stroke, exhaustion, or being overheated usually pants in a staggering and unsteady manner. Their ears, and back of their gums by the molars also feel very hot. A foamy mouth, along with dark red gums or tongue are also good indicators. A hypoglycemic dog will have white or pale gums and feel normal or cool to the touch.

First aid

When you notice any of these injuries or ill­nesses, stop hunting and assess your dog. McKibbin advises that, after careful evalu­ation, treat the most urgent things first.

“Respiratory or cardiac arrest trumps bleeding and broken bones,” she says.

The most likely serious emergency most of us will have to deal with is an over­heated or hypoglycemic dog. Both require immediate field care, followed by an imme­diate visit to the vet or emergency clinic.

In the field, heat stroke can be treated by wetting the dog’s coat, belly, ears, and feet with lukewarm water and then fanning it constantly, followed by a visit to the vet. Wet towels work well for this. For hypogly­cemia, honey or syrup smeared on gums helps raise blood sugar levels. Repeat until you get your dog under veterinarian care. Offer food too, if the dog will eat.

Cuts, punctures, and wounds should be cleaned out and rinsed. Then use anti-bacte­rial soap or ointment on the wound and ban­dage it. If the cut is deep or requires stitches or surgery, get your pup to a veterinarian.

For bee or wasp stings, administer a vet-approved antihistamine and dosage.

Preparation is key

Needless to say, our dogs always find ways to get injured. Experience will help you pro­vide the best first aid you can. So, too, will preparation. Have a well-stocked first aid kit handy. Educate yourself by watching online videos about CPR and first aid for dogs. The hunting season is no time for your best friend to be sidelined for too long. Good first aid can help.

Basic first aid kit

• Clean water/saline bottle to wash wounds
• A squirt bottle to flush eyes.
• Antibacterial soap for wounds (bet­ter than ointments, just avoid their ears or eyes).
• Eye drops
• Honey (for use on wounds or to treat hypoglycemia)
• Vaseline (to help thermometer insertion, and for cuts, scrapes, nose burns etc.)
• Bandage: gauze, self-adhesive wrap (Vetrap), etc.
• Magnifying glass, tweezers, forceps to remove thorns and slivers.
• Antihistamine (For bee stings. Ask your vet to recommend safe human meds and dosage.)
• Rectal thermometer

Best Practices

• Ensure your dog is fit enough to hunt.
• Feed dog on morn­ing of hunt.
• Instruct partners how to shoot safely over your dog.
• Outfit dog with pro­tective boots and chest guard where needed.
• Carefully evaluate wounds. (They’re probably bigger than you think.)
• Get vet care asap, if needed. Call if uncertain.
• Assess your dog periodically. They’re adept at hiding injuries.

Originally published in the Fall 2024 issue of Ontario OUT of DOORS

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